Enclosure

Housing & setup

Getting the enclosure right before you bring a gecko home makes everything easier. Temperatures, substrate, hides — these aren't optional extras, they're the baseline for a healthy animal.

Never use a heat rock. Heat rocks create localised hot spots that cause severe thermal burns — a gecko will sit on a comfortable-feeling surface without realising the contact area is burning them. Use only under-tank heaters on a thermostat.
Temperature gradient
Warm side (surface)
88–92°F

Belly heat from under-tank heater. Measure with a probe thermometer on the substrate surface — not the air. This is where digestion happens.

Cool side (ambient)
73–76°F

Room temperature in most UK homes is sufficient. Your gecko must be able to fully cool down — a gradient is mandatory, not optional.

Humidity target: 30–50%. Higher than 50% causes respiratory infections. Lower than 30% can cause dehydration and difficult sheds. A humid hide handles shedding moisture needs without raising ambient enclosure humidity.
The three hides
Warm hide

Placed on or near the warm side. Your gecko will use this for digestion and resting at higher temperature. Must be fully opaque — darkness is part of the security.

Cool hide

Cool end of the enclosure. Used for temperature regulation and sleeping. Same rules apply — fully enclosed, opaque, and snug enough that the gecko feels secure inside it.

Humid hide

Damp sphagnum moss or coconut fibre inside an enclosed hide. Placed on the warm-to-middle zone. Critical during the 1–2 weeks before shedding. Check moisture every 2–3 days.

Substrate options
Ceramic tile

Easy to clean, retains belly heat well, zero impaction risk. Cut to fit and lay over the UTH. Can look stark — add hides and décor.

Safe
Vinyl / lino flooring

Cheap, easy to replace, soft underfoot. Many patterns mimic rock or earth. Available at DIY stores by the metre. Zero impaction risk.

Safe
Paper towel

Best for hatchlings, sick geckos, or quarantine setups. Easy to replace, lets you monitor faeces closely. Not aesthetically pleasing but the safest possible option.

Safe
Bioactive mix (Josh's Frogs, Bio Dude)

Correct arid bioactive substrates (coco coir + sand + organic topsoil mix) are safe for healthy adult geckos. Must be kept dry. Requires isopod/springtail clean-up crew. Not recommended for juveniles under 6 months.

Safe
Reptile carpet

Fibres can catch on claws and toes causing injuries. Harbours bacteria if not cleaned frequently. Acceptable short-term but not ideal long-term.

Caution
Calci-sand / calcium sand

Marketed as safe but clumps in the digestive tract when ingested during hunting — a serious impaction risk. The calcium content does not offset the danger.

Avoid
Play sand / loose sand

Impaction risk when ingested. Loose particle substrates are the leading substrate-related cause of impaction deaths in leo enclosures.

Avoid
Walnut shell

Sharp edges can lacerate the digestive tract. Indigestible and causes severe impaction. One of the most dangerous substrates available.

Avoid
Wood shavings / bark chips

Holds moisture (raises humidity), can harbour mould, and presents an impaction risk if ingested. Pine and cedar are also aromatic and toxic to reptiles.

Avoid
Setup checklist
Enclosure — minimum 20 gallon long (30" × 12")Essential
For a single adult. 40 gallon breeder (36" × 18") is preferred. Front-opening vivariums are easier to use than top-opening tanks.
Under-tank heater (UTH) covering 1/3 of the floorEssential
Provides belly heat for digestion. Must be connected to a thermostat — never run unregulated.
Thermostat set to 88–92°F warm sideEssential
Pulse-proportional or on/off thermostat. Reptile thermostats only — dimmer switches are not thermostats.
Digital thermometer with probeEssential
At least one probe on the warm-side surface. Stick-on dial thermometers are inaccurate — do not rely on them.
Three hides minimumEssential
One warm, one cool, one humid. Without all three, your gecko cannot thermoregulate or shed properly.
Humid hideEssential
Damp sphagnum moss inside a hide. Essential for shedding. Place on the warm side or middle zone.
Shallow water dishEssential
No deeper than the gecko's belly — a drowning risk otherwise. Change water whenever soiled.
Safe substrate (tile, vinyl, or bioactive mix)Essential
See the substrate guide. Avoid all loose particle substrates for juveniles.
Cool side at 73–76°FEssential
The cool hide should reach this range. Verify with a thermometer — not guesswork.
Low-level UVB lamp (5.0 or 6%, 10–12 hrs/day)Recommended
Not strictly required but increasingly recommended. Allows natural D3 synthesis. If used, reduce D3 dusting frequency.
Background / décor on three sidesRecommended
Reduces stress from perceived exposure. A gecko that can see out on all sides feels permanently exposed.
Flat rocks or slate under warm hideRecommended
Increases belly-heat contact area and provides a natural basking surface. Sterilise before use.
Digital hygrometerRecommended
Target 30–50% humidity. Essential if you live in a high-humidity climate or are running live plants.
Bioactive clean-up crew (isopods + springtails)Optional
Only if using a bioactive substrate. Processes waste and prevents mould build-up.
Cork bark hides / tubesOptional
Natural-looking alternative to plastic hides. Rough texture helps with shed.
Never cohouse leopard geckos. They are solitary animals. Two geckos in one enclosure causes chronic stress, competition for resources, and frequently results in injury. Even two females who appear to tolerate each other are under stress that shortens their lives.